Space Derby Rocket Assembly Tips
- Glue the two halves of the rocket body together, shape with a potato
peeler, then sand. Carefully align and glue the two halves of the
rocket body with Elmer's glue, or something similar. After the glue dries for
15 minutes, shape the body with a potato-peeler until it looks roughly like a
rocket. Then sand it into its final shape with medium grit sandpaper. Wrap
sandpaper around the body, holding it with one hand while you twist the
fuselage with your other hand. Design tips: Fast rockets are smooth,
aerodynamically shaped, and lightweight. Make the shell of the rocket thin,
but thick enough to hold the hanger that will be attached in step 4 and thick
enough to support the pressure of a tightly wound rubber band.
- Cut notches for the plastic dowel. The rubber bands will slip
without these notches. Do NOT glue the dowel onto the body! The dowel
will be held in the notches by the rubber bands - and must be removable so
that broken rubber bands can be replaced.
- Hold the body upright on a nail when you paint. Tap a long nail a
few millimeters into a block of wood. Set the block on a newspaper-covered
floor or table with the nail pointing straight up. Slide the rocket onto the
nail, inserting the nail into the rocket’s hollow center. Paint with a couple
coats of primer, sanding lightly with fine sandpaper after each coat. Next
spray on a topcoat. Don't use too much paint, you want a light rocket.

- (TAKE SPECIAL CARE WITH THIS STEP!) Attach the hanger, making sure that
the rounded end points forward and that the hanger doesn't protrude into the
rocket’s hollow center chamber. Glue it on with generous amounts of glue.
Cut a grove for the hanger in the top-center of the rocket body. This 1" grove
should be centered, 3" from the front and 3" from the rear of the body. Press
the hanger into this groove, rounded end forward. The hanger must not protrude
into the hollow chamber in the center of the body or it will interfere with
the rubber band. The hanger must be firmly glued in place or it may detach
during launch with disastrous consequence. Use a generous amount of glue to
affix the hanger to the rocket body and allow the glue to dry overnight; a
couple hours dry time may not be enough for Elmer's glue. Don’t use it as a guide.
Don't forget.
- The hanger’s rounded end must point forward.
- The hanger must not protrude into the rubber-band chamber.
- The hanger must be very firmly glued on.
- Cut and attach the fins. Shape the fins with scissors, then cut
slits in the rocket and press the fins into the slits. Glue in place. Design
tip: some claim that the fins should be angled upward very slightly. In
theory this lifts the rocket slightly off the line during flight, reducing
friction.
- Trim and balance the propeller. Sand loose pieces of plastic from
the propeller. If the propeller is unbalanced, one side will swing to the
floor when it is placed in a horizontal position. Sand the edges of the
propeller to balance it.
- Don't tighten the cable tie. The rubber bands have already been
attached to the dowel and a loop made from a cable tie has been added. Well
use this loop to wind rockets at the races. Don't tighten it. (Don't
panic. This pre-assembly and the cable-tie are NOT part of the standard kit.
Some packs/troops add this before kits are handed out.)
- Pull rubber bands through with a wire hook. You can make a hook
from coat hanger wire.
- Fine tune. Test the rocket's balance. Hold it lightly by the hanger
with your fingers. If the rocket is nose-heavy, carve or sand a little wood
off that end. If it's tail-heavy, remove wood from the tail area or from the
fins. You may be able to unobtrusively take wood from the rocket's hollow
center chamber. Some advocate lubricating the propeller with a touch of
graphite at the point where it touches the bushing. Other lubricants may melt
the plastic.
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